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Spring 2020 8 PAN PIPES In the tower apartment of St. Jakub Church in Polička, a Bohemian town in Czech Republic, classical composer Bohuslav Martinů (1890- 1959) was born. Never has there been an elevator to reach the family's residence, and I know from my recent visit to see it, the climb up is 192 steps — the first half made of stone. While ascending, Ilona, my guide, pointed out interesting features of this Neo-Gothic church. A winch, a rope, and a basket helped haul heavy loads (such as wood, water, and food provisions) only to the halfway point. Beyond it, everything had to be carried by hand the rest of the way on wooden steps. En route I saw some storage places, an area with a toilet pot (that had to be lowered down to empty), a space for a goat, and a boarded-up room formerly occupied by the family helper. When I arrived at the top, Ilona described the daily life of the Martinůs. e parents and their three children lived in this unique domicile until 1902. Because he was sickly and weak at an early age, Bohuslav was oen carried up and down on his father's or older sister's back. Ferdinand, his father, was the town bellringer who made sure the church bells chimed every evening. Of note is that when the bells were ringing on December 8, 1890, Bohuslav was born! Ferdinand also acted as the local fire alarm. Food supplies were kept in jars and bottles on shelves in the kitchenette, and there was a stove for heating the living quarters. Pots were used for more than cooking. To earn money, his mother submerged dirty laundry in them in order to clean the clothing of the wealthy burghers. (Yes, the clothing had to be brought up and down too.) e adjoining room was a combination living room, bedroom, dining room, children's room, and workroom. I especially liked seeing the rocking horse and abacus. Here his father — a cobbler by trade — repaired shoes. e Czech words "Jsem doma" — translated "I am home"—are on the iron grillwork of the multipurpose room door. It is hard to imagine such challenging living conditions even for a short time, let alone for more than a decade. Rephrasing a familiar statement, certainly there was no place like the Martinů home! Outside it from an elevation of almost 120 feet, it is possible to look down at the town and the fortification wall with its 19 defensive bastions built in the second half of the 14th century. Enjoying spectacular panoramic views from all angles, I walked around the balcony. Here as a child, Bohuslav marched around with his instruments — a small drum and a toy fiddle. Mr. Černovský, a local music teacher, recognized the youngster's musical talent. At age 13, Bohuslav wrote e ree Riders, the first of about 400 compositions during his lifetime. ree years later, because his family was poor, the town council gave financial support so that he could continue his studies at the Prague Conservatory a little over 100 miles away. Unfortunately, aer four years, he was expelled for "incorrigible negligence." But he later earned a teaching certificate and taught violin in his hometown during World War I. A short walk from St. Jakub Church is a museum devoted to Martinů. is edifice, a former barracks and salt storage, has functioned as a school since 1841. Here the composer began his elementary education; now it is possible to see his reconstructed childhood classroom. e museum houses an extensive Martinů archive, including manuscripts, photographs, letters, and other family documents — many contributed by his siblings. In 2009, to commemorate the fiieth anniversary of the composer's death, the museum, which includes the impressive Bohuslav Martinů Center, was reopened aer many years of reconstruction. It debuted with a newly conceived exhibition called e Colorful World of Bohuslav Martinů, authored by musicologist Jaroslav Mihule. is original exhibition, which is still fascinating today, has four parts: From Polička to Prague (1890-1922), Paris and Avant-Garde (1923-1940), Exile and the United States (1941-1952), and e Last Years (1953-1959). To follow the composer's life chronologically, I walked counter-clockwise A World of Music Martinů Tower children's room Copyright Bohuslav Martinů Centre Bohuslav Martinů, Polička's Native Son