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P A N P I P E S Summer 2020 11 A World of Music By Jayne I. Hanlin In "Visiting Prague's Two Dvořák Museums," (PAN PIPES Spring 2015), I wrote: "In 1884, aer spending summers there previously, this Bohemian composer purchased farmstead property from his brother-in-law's estate and built his own Villa Rusalka where he composed this beautiful opera about a water nymph. Next time I'm in Prague, I'll head 38 miles south to see yet another collection, the Antonín Dvořák Memorial at Vysoká u Příbrami." In 2018, I finally did exactly that by hiring a driver to take me to the former mansion, and on the way, I stopped at the nearby Josef Suk Memorial in Křečovice. Dvořák's daughter Otylie married Josef Suk (1874-1935). Eagerly looking forward to visiting the house where he lived and worked — as well as seeing exhibits about his music and the Czech Quartet in which he played, I pushed open the large green gate on the driveway. Aer a few minutes, from a small house nearby, a black cat emerged followed by an elderly gentleman who was the poet Jan Suk, the composer's grandson and thus also one of Dvořák's great-grandsons. When I asked, he said that famed violinist Josef Suk (1929-2011) was his half-brother. As caretaker of the pamatnik (memorial house), Jan informed me the house was closed because of yesterday's pest exterminator. I was crestfallen. Unfortunately, I couldn't return the following day when the house reopened, so I opted instead to visit his grandfather's grave at the nearby church cemetery. It took less than an hour more by car to reach my destination, Vysoká u Příbrami. Before Dvořák purchased his own property from the count, he stayed in the steward's lodge when he came to the area. I entered the grounds through the huge brick- pillared gate, quickly walked along the path, climbed the castle steps, and rang the bell. My guide, Tereza, explained that the 1878 building had been reconstructed in the 1950's to repair World War II damage. e museum opened in 1963. To protect the floors of the three historic rooms, I had to wear open-toed slippers over my shoes as I shuffled along. In another area there was an informative film; upstairs and downstairs displays included original 78 RPM records; facsimiles of scores for operas, concerti, and symphonies; mannequins wearing Rusalka costumes; and photos. I purchased a copy of an 1894 Dvořák family photo. Although his works did not get much attention when Czechoslovakia was under Communist control, his music has been popular worldwide for a long time. On the outside of the village of Vysoká u Příbrami is Villa Rusalka, the composer's acre property surrounded by a seven-foot stone wall. As a result of a previous serendipitous encounter, I had a rare privilege — a special private tour given by Petr Dvořák, another one of Antonin's great-grandsons. Aer welcoming me warmly by the gate, he first pointed out the lime trees—the same ones his great-grandfather had planted— confirming this with an old photo. Long ago near the garden, there had been an area to play ninepins. Originally white with no decoration, the house is now painted beige with bright green trim on the windows. Nearby are two gazebos — one on a little hill that I climbed and the other next to the door of the house. Before entering, Petr pointed out the façade's dovecotes for breeding pigeons. Dvořák was very happy residing in the converted granary. He loved walking, gardening, and, of course, composing. Here he wrote over two dozen memorable works, including his seventh and eighth symphonies, and in 1900, his famous opera Rusalka, for which he named this villa. is private museum has two display rooms with treasured objects that surpassed the four other public collections I had seen. Furniture includes his dining room set, his bed, and one of his two original pianos, a secondhand Hoelling & Spangenberg upright that cost 280 florins in 1884. Because of its size and the configuration of the steps in the house, the piano had to be delivered through an upstairs window. Smaller objects on view include his mustache brush, passport, flat black cap with a visor, walking stick, large colorful banners from his funeral, a picture of Peter Tschaikovsky, and a photo signed by Johannes Brahms, his close friend and champion. On a table is Antonín Dvořák, My Father, the personal biography written by Petr's grandfather Otakar (1885-1961). Aer spending almost an hour exploring the museum, Petr and Meeting Dvo k's Great-Grandsons A bust of Dvořák donated by the Czech government "on the Occasion of The 1993 Celebration Com- memorating The 100 Year Anniversary of the Great Composer 's Sojourn in Spillville."

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