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36 Fall 2021 • sai-national.org A Wld of Music Icelandic Serendipity By Jayne I. Hanlin S oon aer my arrival in Reykjavik, Iceland, I planned to visit Harpa, the city's cultural center near the harbor. I specifically wanted to see Eldborg Hall, the venue for regular performances of the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, the Icelan- dic Opera, and the Reykjavik Big Band. How- ever, with ongoing construction suspending public tours of the building combined with Level 3 Covid restrictions imposed two days before I landed, this desire seemed impossible to fulfill: I would not be allowed to leave my cruise ship unless on an escorted tour. And then on the bus from the airport, I discovered by coincidence that Viking Ocean Cruises was holding the ship's registration in Harpa's lobby rather than on board! is unexpected shuttle stop enabled me to see the building aer all. While my future shipmates were enjoying their breakfasts, the head caterer approved my request and led me through the dark back- stage to peek inside the beautiful 1,800 red- seat auditorium. He turned on the lights, and in awe I stood on the stage. In the daylight aerwards, I could photograph many intrigu- ing areas in the foyer. Unfortunately, I was unable to see a nighttime light show produced by 714 LED bulbs in the windows. From more than four thousand sugges- tions in a contest to name the building, Harpa — pronounced with a rolled "r" and accented on the second syllable — was the winning entry. is word, which has two meanings — an Icelandic stringed instrument and the first summer month in the Viking calendar — was a good choice. Many Icelandic words, such as Djúpivogur and Seyðisörður are difficult to spell and pronounce for those of us who don't speak the language. Harpa is easy. With its multi-colored glass façade made of geometric shapes, Harpa is a conference center as well as a concert hall. Impressive and unique, the structure has won a number of ar- chitecture awards. Acoustics in Eldborg Hall, the main auditorium, make it world-class. As a cellist, I was especially attracted outside on Harpa Plaza to Ólöf Pálsdóttir's sculpture of cellist Erling Blöndal Bengtsson (1932-2013), son of a Danish violinist and an Icelandic pianist. I had a personal reason for visiting Harpa, which opened a decade ago. I wanted to see where Vladimir Ashkenazy, Conductor Laureate of the Iceland Symphony Orches- tra, conducted the hall's inaugural concert on May 4, 2011. He and my late brother, concert pianist Malcolm Frager, met in 1958, became very good friends, and corresponded frequently. Ashkenazy had won the Queen Elisabeth Competition in Brussels, Belgium, two years earlier; my brother won the same competition four years thereaer. I first met Vladimir (Vova) and his wife, Dody, in 1962, At right, Iceland's Eldorg Hall. At right, Iceland's Eldorg Hall. Below, Ólöf Pálsdóttir's sculpture Below, Ólöf Pálsdóttir's sculpture of cellist Erling Blöndal Bengtsson of cellist Erling Blöndal Bengtsson (1932-2013), son of a Danish violinist (1932-2013), son of a Danish violinist and an Icelandic pianist, and an Icelandic pianist, outside Harpa Plaza. outside Harpa Plaza.