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a world of music music, composed orchestral pieces, operas, chamber music, and piano solos as well as vocal and choral works. His museum is housed in the former Old Town Waterworks, an 1880's Neo-Renaissance building near Charles Bridge. On the wall as you enter the museum is a huge three-panel vertical timeline listing the major events in Smetana's life. English-speaking visitors can borrow a folder of printed information for a self-guided tour or, even better, purchase a reasonably priced, comprehensive English guidebook which identifies the items in the collection. It's also a nice keepsake with fascinating details, including this quotation: "By the grace of God and with his help I shall one day be a Liszt in technique, a Mozart in composition." (Smetana's January 23rd, 1843 diary) The displays — all on the first floor — in the small but spacious museum are clearly marked, easily accessible, and not cluttered. After spending only a short time there, an hour or so, visitors will come away with a general idea about the composer's fascinating life, albeit with his struggles and family tragedies. (Four of his six daughters died at a young age.) For those who'd like more information, there is plenty on display for longer visits. The attendants are happy to answer specific questions. The exhibits are chronological, beginning with Smetana's childhood and early studies. Smetana was the eleventh of eighteen children born to a wealthy brewmaster. His father was an amateur musician, and talented young Smetana gave his first piano recital at age six. In 1848, Smetana wrote to Liszt, enclosed a manuscript dedicated to him, and asked for help in getting it published: "I now stand before you with the request that you kindly accept this work and have it printed! Your name would open the doors of the music world to my works. Your name will be the cause of my future happiness, my everlasting gratitude! May I hope as much?" Liszt immediately recognized Smetana's musical gift and responded, "First of all I would like to express my warm thanks for the dedication which I accept with all the more pleasure since the pieces [Morceaux caractéristiques] are the most outstanding, finely felt and refined work that have come to my note recently." Smetana became Liszt's protégé. Nonetheless, eight years later, because of political turmoil in his country and also his own musical turmoil (still feeling relatively unacknowledged in his hometown), Smetana moved for five years to Sweden where he was a choirmaster and teacher. After the Czech political unrest subsided and the national cultural JORDHEIM continued from page 6 provide direct and indirect support. The Program operates in over 155 countries worldwide. Since its establishment in 1946 under legislation introduced by the late U.S. Senator J. William Fulbright of Arkansas, the Fulbright Program has given approximately 318,000 students, scholars, teachers, artists, scientists and other professionals the opportunity to study, teach and conduct research, exchange ideas and contribute to finding solutions to shared international concerns. Fulbright alumni have achieved distinction movement to separate from Germany began in the 1860s, Smetana returned to Prague. But since his education had been in German, he needed to become fluent in Czech. Even after that, musical politics interfered with his career; not everyone agreed with the quality of Smetana's compositions or approved of his association with Liszt, who some considered a radical. But today, Czechs fondly and proudly remember Smetana as one of their country's major classical composers. The next part of the museum focuses on Smetana's musical activities between 1862 and 1874, the year in which he lost his hearing. This period includes his tenure conducting the Theater Orchestra. Another section contains display cases with objects from the final decade of his life: letters, photographs, portraits, programs, and possessions, including his piano and ear horn. Also on exhibit are some original costumes from performances of his operas. Interesting sidelight displays include memorabilia from the estate of diva Ema Destinnová, who in 1909 sang in the premiere of Smetana's comic opera The Bartered Bride at the New York Metropolitan Opera with Gustav Mahler conducting. Today Ema's photo appears on each 2000 Czech crown. Downstairs by the entrance is the gift shop where I purchased two souvenirs with Smetana's image: a small matchbox and a pair of cancelled stamps. But there are also posters of Smetana and quite a few recordings. After my return from Prague, the community orchestra in which I play performed The Moldau. Even while playing the notes in my part, I was transported to the museum in my imagination, baton in hand. The museum, located at Novotného lávka 1 in Old Town, is about a 10-minute walk from either the famous Astronomical Clock or the Estates Theater (where Mozart conducted the premiere of Don Giovanni on Oct. 29, 1787). If you would like to conduct his music as I did, you must not plan your visit on a Tuesday when the museum is closed. However, on all other days, it is open from 10-5. Adult admission is 50 Czech crowns (or about $2.50); seniors and students pay half-price. Jayne I. Hanlin is an initiate of Alpha Omicron and current member of the St. Louis Alumnae chapter. Mrs. Hanlin, the sister of famed pianist Malcolm Frager, is the co-author of Learning Latin Through Mythology (Cambridge University Press, 1991). in government, science, the arts, business, philanthropy, education, and many other fields. Forty-four Fulbright alumni from 12 countries have been awarded the Nobel Prize, and 78 alumni have received Pulitzer Prizes. Prominent Fulbright alumni include: Muhammad Yunus, founder, Grameen Bank, and 2006 Nobel Peace Prize recipient; Juan Manuel Santos, President of Colombia; John Hope Franklin, noted American historian and Presidential Medal of Freedom recipient; Riccardo Giacconi, physicist and 2002 Nobel Laureate; Amar Gopal Bose, chairman and founder, Bose Corporation; Renée Fleming, soprano; Jonathan Franzen, writer; and Daniel Libeskind, architect. Fulbright recipients are among more than 50,000 individuals participating in U.S. Department of State exchange programs each year. The Fulbright U.S. Student Program is administered by the Institute of International Education. Members look forward to reading more from this award-winning member. CLICK FOR MORE To learn more, visit alishajordheim.com sai-national.org Fall 2013 PAN PIPES 15