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sai-national.org • SPRING 2018 • PAN PIPES 25 A WORLD OF MUSIC By Jayne I. Hanlin D uring the 1700s and 1800s, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, Johann Strauss, and Brahms lived in Vienna. Some of these composers lived in quite a few different residences there. Beethoven, for example, lived in 41 apartments — three in Heilingenstadt alone. Mozart lived in 14 different ones in 13 years, moving apparently because his late-night composing at the piano disturbed neighbors. e majority of these places no longer exist, yet the city still boasts about its other sites connected with the legendary figures. If you have several days to visit in Austria's capital, it is possible to travel by public transportation to get to these "composer museums" or take "In the Footsteps of Famous Composers" walking tours (www.wien.info). Since my husband and I had only seven hours in the city, we booked a local driver guide, Franz, in order to visit as many places as possible. He shared fascinating information about the composers as he navigated the city's many one-way streets on a rainy autumn day in his comfortable black Mercedes. ere are two Schubert museums — his Geburtshaus (birthplace) and his Sterbewohnung (apartment where he died). We began sightseeing at the first, an apartment of a complex originally for sixteen families, where Franz was born on January 31, 1797, and lived for almost five years. e Schuberts occupied one room and were fortunate to have their own kitchen (merely an open fire in those days) while the families in the other apartments shared a single kitchen. e unique objects on display in this museum are facsimiles of Schubert's music autographs (original scores), his diaries, letters, programs, and reviews, his bust, his guitar, his glasses, a lock of his hair, and his brother's five-pedal grand piano. I especially enjoyed walking around the courtyard of the building. It was a short drive to Heiligenstadt in the Vienna Woods. Originally a vine village (village with vineyards) a little over an hour by horse- drawn carriage from the center of Vienna, Heiligenstadt was renowned for its health-giving thermal waters once thought helpful in treating deafness. Aer taking a photo of Beethoven's 1808 residence (where he composed the Pastorale Symphony), we headed to the location where he wrote the famous Heiligenstädter Testament, telling his brothers Carl and Johann on October 6, 1802 about his increasing deafness. As a gi to us, Franz purchased a copy of this poignant document, which includes "…and I would have A Viennese Galop A World of Music A World of Music A World of Music Hertha Hurnaus photos /Wien Museum Inside the Beethoven Pasqualatihaus