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PAN PIPES Winter 2019 25 A World of Music watercolor. About a dozen framed watercolors painted by Mendelssohn himself hang on the walls. e former kitchen celebrates Mendelssohn as a European par excellence, an apt characterization of someone who—since the age of 12—frequently traveled on the Continent. He particularly enjoyed hiking in Switzerland and concertized, conducted, and composed in Britain during his ten visits. Several times, he even met Queen Victoria and Prince Albert in Buckingham Palace. Once he improvised two themes they gave him, and another time he wrote a special "Scottish Symphony" arrangement that allowed them to play it as a piano duet. Hanging in this former culinary room is an enormous towel rack with a huge towel giving detailed information about each of 46 blue- and-white plates with scenes and facts that enhance the composer's cosmopolitan image. irteen more framed watercolors Mendelssohn painted during a holiday in Switzerland grace the walls. He liked to send the coach ahead of him and hike to the next town, where he met his family a few days later. On display in the middle of the space, there is a very impressive item: a large wooden traveling chest, a gi from English admirers. Among the English scenes painted on its leather covering is an image of Ye Old George Inn, formerly a coaching house for coach travelers. Only ten miles from London, the pub was established around 1657 and still operates today. Mendelssohn's wife Cécile was also artistic. In one drawer is her miniature painting on a case for calling cards. Other fascinating objects are a Roman veduta ("view") from an 18th-century engraving and a bronze statuette of Dionysos. By the window are costumed mannequins of Felix (a musical giant who was actually only 5'6" tall) and his wife dressed in the popular Biedermeier style. In a nearby glass case is a coat purchased in England for young Karl, the couple's eldest child. is stylish light-colored coat trimmed in black is fastened with nine buttons down the front. and has four decorative buttons on each sleeve and pocket. Continuing Mendelssohn's tradition of having concerts in the music salon, which seats about 60 people, the museum hosts concerts with varied programs on Sundays at 11 AM. e original chairs were the blueprint for the ones used today. In 1835, at age 26, Mendelssohn became the youngest conductor ever of the Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra. ere is a scale model of the original Leipzig Gewandhaus, formerly a building used for cloth merchants. Under Mendelssohn's tenure, this orchestra, which was founded in 1743, prospered. As a result, in 1842 the concert hall was renovated and 200 more seats were added. He was the first conductor to use a baton and stand in front of the orchestra. Deciding it was his sole responsibility to determine the musical repertoire, he promoted music of both present and past composers. In particular, he championed the music of Bach and thus helped with its revival. He spoke out in favor of increasing players' salaries. Mendelssohn also had other musical responsibilities, serving as director of studies at the Leipzig Conservatory, the first conservatory in Germany. In 1843, the Prussian king appointed Felix to positions in Berlin where he directed church music and symphonic concerts. Two years later, he resigned his position as maestro. Shortly thereaer, on November 4, 1847, six months aer his beloved sister Fanny had died, Mendelssohn passed on in the apartment. In 1850, Richard Wagner openly criticized Mendelssohn in his essay "Judaism in Music." In response and to counter the anti-Semitic feeling in Europe, a monument in Mendelssohn's honor was erected in front of the second Gewandhaus in 1892. Sadly, it was destroyed by the Nazis in 1936. His music was forbidden. Not until near the time of the composer's 200th birthday was an exact replica built next to omaskirke. Just inside the entrance of the Mendelssohn-Haus are names and photos of guests (such as conductor and composer Ferdinand Hiller, violinist Joseph Joachim, and "Swedish Nightingale" Jenny Lind) who visited the composer in his apartment. ere was a sign of caution by the staircase: "please walk carefully and attentively!" With great pleasure, I gingerly walked up and down the same steps as Mendelssohn and his illustrious friends did. For more information: www.mendelssohn-stiftung.de/en Mendelssohn's Study Jayne I. Hanlin (seen here with friend Mendelssohn) is an initiate of Alpha Omicron and current member of the St. Louis Alumnae chapter. Mrs. Hanlin, the sister of famed pianist Malcolm Frager, is the co- author of Learning Latin Through Mythology (Cambridge University Press, 1991).